GUIDO'S,

Dinner offerings are comforting and unfussy. Spaghetti, linguine, fettucine (50 cents extra) or macaroni can be ordered with a half-dozen sauces, including butter sauce, red or white clam, olive oil and garlic, Guido's fettucine sauce -- made with ricotta and no egg -- or Guido's tomato sauce, prepared with whole crushed tomatoes, fresh garlic, and Marsala. The latter is memorably well seasoned and meatless. Guido's will add anchovies, mushrooms-and/or olives to its aglio-olio. They also do a "special sauce," which is pasta layered with the aglio-olio, then the fettucine sauce, and finally the tomato sauce. All of Guido's pastas are finished in the oven, so that they're brought piping hot to the table, in keeping with owner and founding chef Robert "Guido" Petteruti's own preference. Guido's is popular for its veal dishes, especially the veal saltimbocca with prosciuttini and Marsala, and the veal melanzane (layered with eggplant and mozzarella). There are also four variations of eggplant-dishes, a meat-less lasagna, and six chicken dishes. Each night has its own specialty, and on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Sundays, there are "unlimited" specials of pasta with tomato sauce ($9.95) or pasta with Guido's special sauce ($12.95). Both come with salad and bread.

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